The Good Life in San Diego

Glorious Glorieta Bay Sunset

After departing Ensenada in the morning, we arrived in San Diego after one overnight sail.  My timing was bad because I had to hang out outside the San Diego Harbor entrance for several hours waiting for daylight to make a safe entrance.  It was an uncomfortable rolly night due to large mixed swells.  A large Coast Guard cutter politely asked for my information by radio about dawn and then let me go.  I pulled into the police dock and step foot on US soil and called US customs to clear me in.

I spent the night at the public marina nearby and then moved to Mission Bay early the next day.  It was a busy weekend due to Memorial weekend.  Brittanny came over in her boar and met friends later.  Andy came by and spent the weekend visiting too.  I stayed at Mission Bay through Tue then move to Glorieta Bay adjacent to Coronado Island.  Ive been anchored here ever since.  Ive surfed a few time in the small surf and have been arranging for trucking Mariah back to Seattle.  I had a nice visit with an old friend Mirelle and her extremely cute daughter Avalon and then later sailed with my cousin Katy.

Below are recent photos.

Cheers,
Ken

My last sunset at sea...for now

Tattered Mexico flag

Mariah at the public marina next to Craig and Sisi's beautiful 50' cruiser

The Haha Crew minus James in Mission Bay

Pacific Beach sunset (next to Mission Bay anchorage)

Pacific Beach beachfront

M

Mission Bay anchorage - 72 hour limit

Gourmet BBQ at Andy's Dad's San Diego home

Mirelle and Avalon

Cousin Katy

Turtle Bay to Ensenada

Anchored alone at South end of Turtle Bay

Turtle Bay

Gas station on dock at Turtle bay

After arriving at Turtle Bay and talking to Andrew and Brian on the big catamaran, we decided to explore the deserted south end of Turtle Bay. We moved both boats the 4 miles across the bay and set the hook again.  We walked the beach and checked out all the conch shells and plastic trash that washed up on the beach. Later that night Brian and Andrew came over to Mariah and cooked up a yummy curry fish dish with fresh pineapple, bell pepper and onion. I supplied the brown rice and drinks.  We baked oatmeal cookies and watched another movie into the night.

Brian and Drew arriving for dinner

Shells on south beach of turtle bay

Pile of cans on walk.

  On Thursday, Andrew and Brian returned to the main anchorage while I set off alone across the desert to the beach across the peninsula.  It was about a 2 mile walk each way with unique desert features like scrub, trash and shell piles.  It was a great walk and I appreciated the exercise.  There was a religious shrine, ornately decorated, out in the middle of the walk in the middle of nowhere.  When I returned to Mariah in the afternoon the wind was up to 15-20 knots and I was on a lee shore.  It was a wet kayak trip back to boat but I got the anchor up and returned to the main anchorage across the bay.

 

 Later Thursday afternoon, I attended a cruiser potluck at Antonio’s beach bar.  There were about 10 of us from various boats. It was a tame evening with many of us drinking soda instead of alcohol.  The food was great and my pineapple right-side up cake survived my kayak beach landing unscathed and was a great hit.  I just cooked a pilsbury cake and added pineapple rings and brown sugar on top.

My first pineapple cake

 

 

 

 

 

Potluck group at Antonio's Bear Bar

 

 

 

 

  Friday was spent walking around town a bit while waiting for better weather.  We explored the local church and admired the nautical
themed stained glass.  I also did a little final grocery shopping and got another cake to bake before departure for leftovers at sea (gotta feed that sweet tooth).  We learned from Antonio that the fisherman make excellent money by getting top price for fish, abalone, and giant squid that is shipped abroad (much to Japan).  Unfortunately, the fisherman often blow their riches on drugs which is such a shame.  Antonio, who owns a humble beach bar, is a part of group trying to improve life in Turtle Bay.  He’s a great guy and extremely helpful to cruisers.

Shrine in middle of nowhere.

Departing Turtle Bay for Ensenada -  Saturday May 18, 2013
Saturday was the big departure day!!!  The winds are suppose to peak today at 18-25 knots from the NW and then begin to calm over the next days.  Everyone has different plans but my plan is to leave early while the wind is low and motor up the protected east side of Cedros island and anchor for the night at the north end.  My plan went pretty well Saturday but I did experience fluky winds from 3 different directions during the passage.  I tried not to anchor near an arroyo (valley) but I still had high gusting winds (williwaws) into the night maybe up to 30-40 knots.  I had to turn off the wind generator before it blew up.  The sea lions on the beach serenaded me through the night.  Luckily the anchor held fine but if it dragged it would have just been out to sea which aint so bad.  There was a small town just up the beach from where I was anchored.  I guess these small fishing outposts all have 3 staples:  a church, generator and school.

Small fishing village on Cedros Island.

    Sunday and Monday blur together after departing Cedros Island.  I mostly motored, read, and watched movies.  I spotted a small whale two different times and also had occasional dolphin and sea lion visits.  I also had 2 or 3 sailboats off in the distance.  The one boat that passed close was a 50-60’ Gunboat catamaran with orange hull and black sails.  At a cost of over 1 million, he was still only motoring at  5 knots to my 4 knots, but a lot more comfortable I would imagine.  He would have flown by me if we were sailing off the wind or down wind.

   Tuesday I realized I should stop in Ensenada to get diesel because I was cutting it too close.  I actually sailed much of the day but was making slower progress due to being 20 degrees off course.  I really enjoyed the quiet of sailing over motoring.  At dusk I was still 30 miles from Ensenada so I had to motor at 1 knot through the night so I could pass through the opening into the bay at first light. My plan worked out well and I pulled into Ensenada about 11 am after fueling up at Marina Coral.

Ensenada – Tuesday  May 21, 2013

Visiting Dolphins

Rough Ensenda Dock

   I have many memories of Ensenada from both childhood and university days.  My family used to pass through Ensenada on the way to camping at Estero Beach.  We always parked on the same street with 3 foot curbs and there was always the same old lady with bottle glasses selling fish tacos from a push cart on the corner.  After tacos, we would walk the streets looking at the various shops.  As a young adult, my buddies and I would pass through Ensenada in various surfing/camping trips and visit the famous Hussongs Cantina and the newer Pappas and Beer dance bar across the street.  Its amazing we survived those wild days!!

  I was planning on anchoring for free but it appears that anchoring is no longer allowed in Ensenada bay so I took a slip offered by the young security guard for $30.  It was a surgy slip with lots of squeaking from the fenders.  The fancy Coral Marina was $70 so I guess $30 was a better deal.  I put out all 6 fenders to protect Mariah.  The other boats on this dock are pretty beat up from the swell.

   I spent the rest of the day walking around the touristy parts of Ensenada.  I found Hussongs (the same old bar)and Papas and Beer(also appears the same but has a larger and louder version also across the street.)  I also found the corner where my family always parked (25 years ago) with the 3 foot curb. The taco cart is gone but the same leather shop remains.  The shops still carry much of the same junk like ceramic hamburgers and surfing monkeys.  However, I also found some nice new products like stained glass and metal art.  I bought Mariah a metal sculpture of a face with wind blown hair (Mariah’s theme) to hang on the wall which I may add back lighting.  I also had fish and meat tacos from an enclosed street cart (trailer) and napped at a small park near the really huge Mexico flag with the really big gold colored political heads below.  The streets were filled with tourists from the visiting Carnival cruise ship.  I planned to get a token beer but I was tired and just returned to Mariah for a quiet night.  A good day overall…mission accomplished of walking down memory lane at Ensenada.  I must say the tourist area and marina walk has improved with age. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Same old Hussong's Cantina

The corner where my family used to park for fish tacos and shopping.

Everyone needs a ceramic hamburger

Big Flag with the big heads

They call the winds "Mariah" Metal Sculpure

One picture tells it all

Mossy art

   Tomorrow, Wednesday, I depart for San Diego.  The cruiser’s net reported gale force winds coming but a San Diego report called for low winds, which was confirmed by someone at the Ensenada Marina.  So let’s hope for low winds for my last 70 mile passage.

Cheers from Ken and Mariah


Quick note...I arrive friday Morning at San Diego after riding through a big 8 foot swell.  All is good. More later.

Sail back from Banderos Bay to Cabo San Lucas and now in Turtle Bay.

Calm sunset at sea.

Friday May 3, 2013 – Departing Banderos Bay for Cabo San Lucas

   Mariah is prepped, groceries are stocked, so I guess its time to start heading home. There is reportedly a “Southerly” arriving today which will help with the trip Northwest back to Cabo San Lucas.  Mariah and I departed Paradise Resort Marina about noon after a checking out and taking a final swim in the lovely refreshing pool before leaving(I had to slide down the water slide 3 last times).  I have so many nice memories of Paradise Marina and Banderas Bay that it is really hard to leave.  I am feeling a bit lonely and anxious about the long journey back to San Diego.  This is by far the longest trip Mariah and I have done alone.  So I focus on the tasks at hand and try to keep a positive outlook.  I know that in time I will get back in my “travelin groove” with Mariah and things will work out.

Bananas on tree at Paradise Resort

   Our first stop is the Marina at La Cruz to fill up on Diesel. The wind in picking up so set sail but its not quite in the direction we want to go. We are passed by some high tech black hydrofoil trimaran which I think has a NZ on the sail;  it flaunts its high tech speed while Mariah and I plug along at a more traditional pace.  As we leave the bay I say good by to my favorites of Banderas Bay: Surfing at Punta Mita, strolling the streets of Sayulitas (not really in the bay), exploring the narrow walkways of Yolapa, swimming at the Paradise Resort pools and hot tubs, exploring the spooky Marieta Islands, hiking to the many waterfalls and swim holes,  enjoying the flora and fauna, and sharing all of it with others.  Again, its hard to leave such a cool place but I was luck to have come this far which was further than originally planned.

  As we leave the outer edges of the bay around 5pm, we are greeted by nearby dolphins and distant whale spouts.  My heart is in my throat but we carry on.  The wind dies so we motor through the night on a direct course to Cabo San Lucas about 300 miles away.  

Lovely flowers at Paradise Resort

  Saturday and Sunday blend together with motoring over calm seas in the morning and some sailing close hauled in the afternoon winds that die down after sunset.  At night I nap and poke my head out for a looksee every 1-2 hours. We only see 1 big cargo ship on the whole passage. There is some radio chatter so boats must be within 25 miles but I cant see them.  We pass the prison island again at dusk and again I am spooked but nothing come of it.  It is nice to have some familiar land features even if it is a penile colony.

  

Evening Visitor spent the night and left his mark

 I didn’t see much in the way of wildlife on this passage except for the birds that would fly by and check us out.  One bird decided to land on Mariah and hand onto the lifeline.  My first instinct was to scare it away but I didn’t  mind the company.  He ended up staying all night until I finally shooed him away in the morning so I could clean up all his “gifts” of poop before they dried in the sun.

   I had lots of time to read, snack, prepare meals, watch DVDs and take in the view.  My anxieties decreased as the days went on and things were going okay.

  Mostly the passage was either calm motoring or smooth sailing except for Sunday night when the wind picks up to maybe 20 knots on the nose.  I put in 2 reefs in the main and jib and bounce along into the night while watching movies. At least we are heeled such that Im pressed into bed and the dinette and not falling out. The wind dies about 4 am so we motor the last 60 miles into Cabo by noon on Monday. 

   It felt great to achieve my first goal in such a timely manner with the weather gods on my side. Traveling 300 miles in 3 days and a pretty calm ride except for the last night, not bad for Mariah and I.  We seem to get into a groove once the sails are set and tweaked to maximize speed.  I planned to stay the night at Cabo Monday night but while getting fuel another sailor reports the weather window stays open just 2 more days before the headwinds pick up.  So I take care of a few things and depart Cabo by 3 pm heading NW towards Bahia Santa Maria.  On our way out we pass 2 anchored cruise ships, a multitude of jet skis buzzing around like fies, and throngs of happy tourists in pangas and glass bottom boats visiting “Lovers Beach” and other local beaches.  It’s a beautiful sunny day but while its warm in the sun, there is a bit of a chill in the air marking my cooler path north.

Cabo San Lucas revisited

Monday May 6, 2013 – Cabo San Lucas to Magdalena Bay

We motor sailing into a 10 knot breeze and mildly bumpy sea as we depart Cabo San Lucas and pass by the famous arch.  I hug the coast for the first few hours then head off shore a bit of safety.  I found a dried out flying fish in one of the kayaks on deck.  It must have been there a few days because it was pretty stiff but interesting as its wings were deployed.  After taking some photos I launched it back into the sea like a paper airplane but alas it took a nosedive instead of a graceful glide.

Flying Fish crash landed on Mariah

We arrived in Magdelena Bay after 2 days of motor sailing. There were 2 other sailboats in Man o war cove where the harbor master arrived by panga where I filled in his registration book and bought 30 gallons of diesel from gerry cans. Man o war cove is a small fishing villiage with a distinct fishy smell from the millions of small dead red crabs that color the water and beaches.  I didn’t even go to shore and just had a quiet, but stinky, night on board.

Man o war cove

Thursday May 9, 2013 – Mag Bay to Bahia Santa Maria

Sailed all day from Man o war cove to Bahia Santa Maria. It was a great downwind sail out of Mag Bay but long tack against headwinds to Bahia Santa Mariah.  I figured I had all day to arrive at the anchorage so I tacked all day just to travel the 15 miles to the bay.  It was a long day but I arrived at the anchorage in the afternoon and dropped the hook among 4 other cruising sailboats and 2 big Mexican fishing boats. 

 

Friday May 10, 2013 – Hiking and Surfing at Bahia Santa Maria

Today I went for a hike up the hill with James on “Gold Dust” (from San Diego),  Chris on “Swabby”  (from Portland) and Brian and Andrew on  “INNcredible Sea Lodge” (Sailing back from France on the new Lagoon 46 Catamaran).  It was a great hike with views from above and interesting shells and geological features in the gully.  There were terrific “Kodak moments” but I regretfully forgot my camera.  We even saw a wild coyote checking us out.

Later that day, Brian, Andrew and I broke out my surf boards and hit the small waves on the beach.  It was a great day for Andrew’s first day surfing and Brian’s first waves in decades.  The waves were only 2-3 feet but I still enjoys catching some short rides.  Earlier we moved our 2 boats within paddling distance of the waves but it was still a tiring paddle.  It was easier paddling back to the boats as the gusting winds pushed us along.  That night after happy hour we watched the DVD “Riding Giants” on Mariah in the surfing spirit. 

Shells cover the beach at Bahia Santa Maria

Saturday May 11, 2013 – Beach Combing and Surfing at Bahia Santa Maria

We had another day at Bahia Santa Maria while awaiting calmer weather.  Chris and Brian and I took their dingy to shore to explore the beach and look for shells and whale bone.  No luck with finding whale bones but we had fun looking at the many shells and sand formations along the beach.  Chris also flew his cool Para foil kite which would drag you along the beach during gusts.

Later that day, Andrew and I returned to the surf in a last chance effort to catch waves.  Again the waves were small but the wind was mild and I had a few very long rides on my longboard.  What fun!!!  The water was about 67 degrees so we wore full wetsuits.

 At one point I was approached and hailed by the Mexican Navy who politely asked generic immigration questions and then left without searching Mariah.

Polite Mexican Navy

Sunday May 12, 2013 – Depart Bahia Santa Maria for Turtle Bay

Departing Bahia Santa Maria

We departed about 8 am into 2-3 foot choppy seas with 10-15 knot wind.  I spent the day motor sailing a direct course for Turtle Bay.  The wind and seas died down Monday and Tuesday so I mostly motored with the main and sometimes the jib for the next 2 days.  I tried some trolling with my hand lines but no bites.  I had one visitor aboard during the trip; it was a small black bird the appeared in the cockpit about 3 am.  At first I thought it was a bat and was spooked until I got a flashlight. 

Hitchhiker in cockpit

 I set it free after first taking a photo of my little friend.  I arrived at Turtle Bay Tuesday afternoon and dropped the hook after a calm passage.  Had a fish dinner and watched a movie again on “INNcredible” catamaran.

Wednesday May 15, 2013 – Waiting at Turtle Bay

Got diesel and groceries today and changed fuel filters.  Looks like we are waiting until Sunday to depart due to building winds predicted.  Its sunny and warm in Turtle Bay so I cant complain.  There are about 7 sailboats waiting to depart North.  All in good time I guess.

Cheers from Ken and Mariah