Turtle Bay to Ensenada

Anchored alone at South end of Turtle Bay

Turtle Bay

Gas station on dock at Turtle bay

After arriving at Turtle Bay and talking to Andrew and Brian on the big catamaran, we decided to explore the deserted south end of Turtle Bay. We moved both boats the 4 miles across the bay and set the hook again.  We walked the beach and checked out all the conch shells and plastic trash that washed up on the beach. Later that night Brian and Andrew came over to Mariah and cooked up a yummy curry fish dish with fresh pineapple, bell pepper and onion. I supplied the brown rice and drinks.  We baked oatmeal cookies and watched another movie into the night.

Brian and Drew arriving for dinner

Shells on south beach of turtle bay

Pile of cans on walk.

  On Thursday, Andrew and Brian returned to the main anchorage while I set off alone across the desert to the beach across the peninsula.  It was about a 2 mile walk each way with unique desert features like scrub, trash and shell piles.  It was a great walk and I appreciated the exercise.  There was a religious shrine, ornately decorated, out in the middle of the walk in the middle of nowhere.  When I returned to Mariah in the afternoon the wind was up to 15-20 knots and I was on a lee shore.  It was a wet kayak trip back to boat but I got the anchor up and returned to the main anchorage across the bay.

 

 Later Thursday afternoon, I attended a cruiser potluck at Antonio’s beach bar.  There were about 10 of us from various boats. It was a tame evening with many of us drinking soda instead of alcohol.  The food was great and my pineapple right-side up cake survived my kayak beach landing unscathed and was a great hit.  I just cooked a pilsbury cake and added pineapple rings and brown sugar on top.

My first pineapple cake

 

 

 

 

 

Potluck group at Antonio's Bear Bar

 

 

 

 

  Friday was spent walking around town a bit while waiting for better weather.  We explored the local church and admired the nautical
themed stained glass.  I also did a little final grocery shopping and got another cake to bake before departure for leftovers at sea (gotta feed that sweet tooth).  We learned from Antonio that the fisherman make excellent money by getting top price for fish, abalone, and giant squid that is shipped abroad (much to Japan).  Unfortunately, the fisherman often blow their riches on drugs which is such a shame.  Antonio, who owns a humble beach bar, is a part of group trying to improve life in Turtle Bay.  He’s a great guy and extremely helpful to cruisers.

Shrine in middle of nowhere.

Departing Turtle Bay for Ensenada -  Saturday May 18, 2013
Saturday was the big departure day!!!  The winds are suppose to peak today at 18-25 knots from the NW and then begin to calm over the next days.  Everyone has different plans but my plan is to leave early while the wind is low and motor up the protected east side of Cedros island and anchor for the night at the north end.  My plan went pretty well Saturday but I did experience fluky winds from 3 different directions during the passage.  I tried not to anchor near an arroyo (valley) but I still had high gusting winds (williwaws) into the night maybe up to 30-40 knots.  I had to turn off the wind generator before it blew up.  The sea lions on the beach serenaded me through the night.  Luckily the anchor held fine but if it dragged it would have just been out to sea which aint so bad.  There was a small town just up the beach from where I was anchored.  I guess these small fishing outposts all have 3 staples:  a church, generator and school.

Small fishing village on Cedros Island.

    Sunday and Monday blur together after departing Cedros Island.  I mostly motored, read, and watched movies.  I spotted a small whale two different times and also had occasional dolphin and sea lion visits.  I also had 2 or 3 sailboats off in the distance.  The one boat that passed close was a 50-60’ Gunboat catamaran with orange hull and black sails.  At a cost of over 1 million, he was still only motoring at  5 knots to my 4 knots, but a lot more comfortable I would imagine.  He would have flown by me if we were sailing off the wind or down wind.

   Tuesday I realized I should stop in Ensenada to get diesel because I was cutting it too close.  I actually sailed much of the day but was making slower progress due to being 20 degrees off course.  I really enjoyed the quiet of sailing over motoring.  At dusk I was still 30 miles from Ensenada so I had to motor at 1 knot through the night so I could pass through the opening into the bay at first light. My plan worked out well and I pulled into Ensenada about 11 am after fueling up at Marina Coral.

Ensenada – Tuesday  May 21, 2013

Visiting Dolphins

Rough Ensenda Dock

   I have many memories of Ensenada from both childhood and university days.  My family used to pass through Ensenada on the way to camping at Estero Beach.  We always parked on the same street with 3 foot curbs and there was always the same old lady with bottle glasses selling fish tacos from a push cart on the corner.  After tacos, we would walk the streets looking at the various shops.  As a young adult, my buddies and I would pass through Ensenada in various surfing/camping trips and visit the famous Hussongs Cantina and the newer Pappas and Beer dance bar across the street.  Its amazing we survived those wild days!!

  I was planning on anchoring for free but it appears that anchoring is no longer allowed in Ensenada bay so I took a slip offered by the young security guard for $30.  It was a surgy slip with lots of squeaking from the fenders.  The fancy Coral Marina was $70 so I guess $30 was a better deal.  I put out all 6 fenders to protect Mariah.  The other boats on this dock are pretty beat up from the swell.

   I spent the rest of the day walking around the touristy parts of Ensenada.  I found Hussongs (the same old bar)and Papas and Beer(also appears the same but has a larger and louder version also across the street.)  I also found the corner where my family always parked (25 years ago) with the 3 foot curb. The taco cart is gone but the same leather shop remains.  The shops still carry much of the same junk like ceramic hamburgers and surfing monkeys.  However, I also found some nice new products like stained glass and metal art.  I bought Mariah a metal sculpture of a face with wind blown hair (Mariah’s theme) to hang on the wall which I may add back lighting.  I also had fish and meat tacos from an enclosed street cart (trailer) and napped at a small park near the really huge Mexico flag with the really big gold colored political heads below.  The streets were filled with tourists from the visiting Carnival cruise ship.  I planned to get a token beer but I was tired and just returned to Mariah for a quiet night.  A good day overall…mission accomplished of walking down memory lane at Ensenada.  I must say the tourist area and marina walk has improved with age. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Same old Hussong's Cantina

The corner where my family used to park for fish tacos and shopping.

Everyone needs a ceramic hamburger

Big Flag with the big heads

They call the winds "Mariah" Metal Sculpure

One picture tells it all

Mossy art

   Tomorrow, Wednesday, I depart for San Diego.  The cruiser’s net reported gale force winds coming but a San Diego report called for low winds, which was confirmed by someone at the Ensenada Marina.  So let’s hope for low winds for my last 70 mile passage.

Cheers from Ken and Mariah


Quick note...I arrive friday Morning at San Diego after riding through a big 8 foot swell.  All is good. More later.